I have always LOVED reclaimed wood. My problem is the price of it always prevented me from building something with it.
I saw some people use techniques to make new wood look reclaimed, so I decided to try it!
The design for this build is based off a console from Arhaus that sells for way too much. I might be biased but I love how mine turned out and for all under $100!!
I recomment cutting all the pieces with a table saw but if you don't have one a circular saw and a straight edge will work! You can also ask to have the pieces cut at Home Depot or Lowes.
I hope you love the plans! and as always if there are any questions feel free to ask them in the comments.
Overview
Material List
Shopping List
wood glue
2" x 8' x 8' pine boards (5) actual size is 1.5" x 7.25" x 96"
Sheet of 2'x2' 3/4" plywood
figure 8 fasteners
sandpaper
2 1/2" pocket screws
3/4" forstner bit
Inset door hinge (set of 2)
Coarse wire wheel
Nylon wire wheel
Minwax dark walnut
Minwax white wash
Minwax barnwood color wash
Minwax polycrylic in matte
Minwax pre stain conditioner
Foam brushes
Finishing paint brush
Tools Needed
Circular saw/table saw
Drill
Sander
Kreg jig
Measuring tape
Miter saw
Jigsaw
Kreg Hinge jig (Optional but highly recommend!)
Cut List
Top 85" L x 14" W x 1.5" thickness
Legs 30" H x 2.5" W x 1.5" thickness (4)
Long supports 62" L x 2" W x 1.5" thickness (2)
Short supports 9.5" L x 2" W x 1.5" thickness (2)
Front boards 19.5" L x 7" H x 1.5" thickness (2)
End divider 9.5" L x 7" H x 1.5" thickness (2)
Doors 7" H x 10 1/32" W x 3/4" thickness (2)
Decorative end pieces 9" L x 7" H x 1.5" thickness (4)
Decorative end piece supports 5" L x 2" H x 1.5" thickness (4)
Center dividers 9.5" L x 9" W x 1.5" thickness (2)
Bottom of center doors 20" L x 9.5" W x 3/4" thickness (1) this is the plywood
Bottom support 9.5" L x 2" H x 1.5" thickness (2)
Vertical trim between doors 7" H x 1.5" W x 1.5" thickness (2)
Back 62" L x 7" H x 1.5" thickness
STEPS
Attach legs to long supports to the legs 7" from the top of the legs using 2 1/2" pocket screws and wood glue.
2. Attach the short supports to the legs 7" from the top with 2 1/2" pocket screws and wood glue.
3. Attach the decorative end piece supports 7" from the top of the legs using 2 1/2" pocket screws and wood glue.
Make sure the pocket holes face the back.
4. Draw and cut out the decorative end pieces with a jigsaw. Get creative! This shape can be however you want it to be.
Then attach the decorative pieces to the side and supports using 2 1/2" pocket screws and wood glue. Again, make sure the pocket screws face the back of the console.
5. Attach the back to the sides of the console using wood glue and 2 1/2" pocket screws.
For additional strength you can attach the back to the long supports as well.
6. Attach the front boards with 2 1/2" pocket screws and make sure the pocket holes face the back.
7. Attach the vertical trim between the doors with 2 1/2" pocket screws and wood glue.
8. Attach the center dividers using 2 1/2" pocket screws and wood glue.
Make sure the center dividers are flush with the edge of the vertical trim.
9. Attach the bottom of the door opening using 2 1/2" pocket screws and wood glue from the bottom of the console.
10. Attach the top of of the console with figure 8 fasteners.
Use a forstner bit thats slightly larger than one side of the figure 8 fastener. Drill just enough on the edges of the boards so one edge of the figure 8 fastener sits flush in the hole.
Screw in the figure 8 fastener with the screws provided. Place the top on the console and use a measuring tape to make sure the top overhangs equal distance on all 4 sides. The front and back should extend out 3/4".
Then screw in the other end of the figure 8 fastener into the bottom of the console top.
10. Attach the doors using inset hinges.
To make drilling the holes for the hinges easier, I highly recommend using the Kreg Hinge Jig!
11. Time to make the wood look reclaimed!
Attach a coarse wire wheel to your drill. Run it quickly in the direction of the grain.
It will start to take out all the soft wood of the pine, which means you should be seeing ridges where the grain is. Its going to make a lot of mess!
Do this on all the wood until you are happy with the look.
12. Use a nylon wire wheel next to sand between the grooves in the wood you created in the last step. This will really soften everything and make it smooth.
13. Start with Minwax pre-stain conditioner. This is a very important step with pine, to make sure that the stain is even when applied.
Saturate the wood with the conditioner and let it set for 5-10 minutes before wiping off the excess. Then process right to step 14!
14. Saturate the wood with Minwax Dark Walnut in the direction of the grain.
Leave for 5 - 15 minutes then wipe in the direction of the grain until all the excess is off.
Make sure to dispose of the rags properly or they can cause a fire!
15. Wait 24 hours before applying Minwax color wash in white.
Paint in the direction of the grain in sections and wipe off immediately. This stuff dries fast so make sure you wipe it off quickly to avoid streaks.
16. Wait 2 hours and apply Minwax color wash in Barnwood to give it more dimensions.
The same instructions apply to the Barnwood color wash as in step 15.
You can do another coat in 2 hours if you want it a little darker.
17. Wait 24 hours and apply Minwax polycrylic with a finishing paint brush in the direction of the grain.
Wait 2-3 hours until its dry and apply another coat.
And thats it!! I hope you enjoyed these plans.
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