How To Build A Coffee Bar/Bar Cabinet

I love coffee... probably a little too much. If you buy coffee everyday you know it's expensive, so instead I bought an espresso machine.

Since it takes up half my counter, I wanted a dedicated cabinet to hold the machine and all my mugs and syrups. So I sketched this cabinet up and built it!

If you have a CNC and want the file for the doors, don't hesitate to email me at Builtbybecdesigns@gmail.com and I will send it over.

If you don't have a CNC, you can build flat panel doors and this cabinet will still look amazing!

Let me show you how to build your own!

TOOLS AND MATERIALS:

Tools:

• Table saw/circular/track saw

• Drill

• Router

• Sander

• Nail gun

• Wagner Earlex 5700 Sprayer

Materials:

• 1 – ¼” x 4 x 8 sheet of plywood for back  

• 1 – 3/4” x 4 x 8 sheet of plywood

•  5 bd ft of 1.25” thick wood

• 10 bd ft of 1” thick wood

• Stain and finish of choice

• Spray gun for stain

• 1¼” Kreg pocket screws – 100

• Wood glue

• 1” forstner bit

• Figure 8 fasteners

• ¼” rabbeting bit

• 4 sets of inset hinges (I like using Blum) - thick door hinges if using CNC and regular hinges if not

• 2 sets of push open hinges (These are the ones I used)

• Kreg hinge jig

• 1" brad nails

Cut List:

• Back - 31" x 28" x .25"

• Base - 12.5" x 4" x 1.25" (2)

  26.5" x 1.5" x 1.25" (2)

• Doors - 29.25" x 13.25" x 1" (2)

• Face frame - 32" x 1.25" x .75" (2)

  29" x 1.25" x .75" (2)

• Shelves - 27.5" x 12" x.75" (2)

• Shelf dividers - 12" x 5" x .75"

  12" x 11.5" x .75"

  12.5" x 12" x .75"

• Cabinet sides - 32" x 14.25" x .75" (2)

• Cabinet top & bottom - 29" x 14.25" x .75" (2)

STEP 1

Cut the top & bottom to size. Both ends should be beveled to 45 degrees. I used a track saw.

Step 2

Cut the sides with a 45 degree bevel on each end.

Step 3

Glue up the box. You can use just glue or you can use a domino jig.

Step 4

Cut the face frame to size. The edges should be bevel to 45 and the ends are mitered. I used a table saw for this part.

Step 5

Glue the face frame onto the cabinet. Use clamps & let dry for 24 hours.

Step 6

Use pocket holes & wood glue to attach the shelves to the inside of the cabinet.

Use spacer blocks cut at the right height to attach the shelves. It will help keep the shelves level & easier to screw in.

Make sure there is 1/4" gap between shelf and back of cabinet to allow for the cabinet back.

Step 7

Attach the shelf dividers using pocket holes, wood glue and 1 1/4" pocket screws.

Step 8

Route the back of the cabinet with a 1/4" rabbeting bit and your router. Make sure the groove is 1/4" deep. You can do this step after you have glued up the cabinet before you install the shelves (to make it easier).

Use a chisel to round out the corners and remove the material near the shelves.

Step 9

Attach the back with a nail gun and 1" nails into the groove you just made.

Step 10

If you are using the CNC to make the pattern, make sure the doors are oversized. If not then just cut the doors to size, use the Kreg Hinge jig to install the hinges -make sure where the hinges are located don't interfere with the shelves.

Step 11

Add a space block inside the cabinet where the hinges are located. This will allow the inset hinges to swing properly. The spacer block should be 1/2" thick.

Install the doors, making sure there is an equal gap of 1/8" on each side of the door.

Step 12

Cut the base to size and then cut the half laps. I used my table saw for this but you can also use a miter saw with a depth stop!

Step 13

Glue up the base with just glue

Step 14

Sand and stain! I used the Wagner Earlex 5700 to make the staining process so much easier.

I used Rubio monocoat for the finish, since it's a one step finish all I had to do was spray it on, wipe it in the direction of the grain then I was done.

Step 15

Attach the base to the bottom of the cabinet using figure 8 fasteners and you've built yourself a cabinet!