My friend asked me to build her a media console with cane doors and of course I said yes! I am going to show you how, so you can build your own.
If you want the printable plans you can find them here:
TOOLS AND MATERIALS:
Tools:
· Drill
· Circular saw/table saw/track saw
· Sander
· Router
· Clamps
· Staple gun
· Nail gun
Materials:
· 1 – ¾” x 4 x 8 sheet of plywood
· 1 – ¼” x 4 x 8 sheet of plywood for back
· 15 bd ft of ¾” thick wood or 2 – 6’ x ¾” x 2.5” also called 1 x 3, 6 – ¾” x 5.5” x 6’ also 1 x 6
· 10 bd ft of 1.5” thick wood or 4 – 6’ x 1.5” x 1.5”
· Stain and finish of choice
· Cane 1 sheet of 17” x 9.8 feet
· ¼” length heavy duty staples
· 1 ¼” Kreg pocket screws – 100
· Wood glue
· 1” forstner bit
· ¼” rabbeting bit
· ½” brad nails
· 4 sets of inset hinges (I like using Blum)
· Kreg Hinge Jig
PART 1: Building the legs
For the legs I used basic 2x2 oak from the hardware store and 3/4" oak plywood.
I go into more detail in the building plans, but the panel will attach to the legs using pocket holes and wood glue.
If you are using hardwood for the cabinet (like I did) make sure you are using the fine Kreg screws for hardwood so it doesn't split the wood....ask me how I know haha.
You will have 3 seperate legs for this cabinet. The center legs have a panel attached to each side so that it's super easy to hang the hinges for the doors.
Part 2: Adding the shelves
I used dados (grooves) to attach my shelves but I've made the plans beginner friendly! Pocket screws work great for attaching the shelves to the side panels.
I definitely recommend cutting a spacer to size when you install the shelves, it will hold them in place a lot easier while you screw them in and it will make sure they are level. Also remember clamps are a great second set of hands!
Once the shelves were glued up, I added hardwood edge banding to the fronts and larger pieces at the bottom of the cabinet.
I just used wood glue and clamps for this and let them set overnight but you can use a nail gun if you want the process to go faster.
The hardwood edge banding not only covers the plywood edge but it makes the shelves more rigid, which prevents sagging. And it just looks great!
Once the edge banding was dry, I flipped the cabinet on its front. I used my router and a 1/4" rabbeting bit to route a rabbet (groove) on the backside of the cabinet, where the 1/4" plywood will rest for the back.
I know this part might seem intimidating but it makes for such a clean way to add a cabinet back!
I then attached the top with figure 8 fasteners. The best way to attach top to bases in my opinion. It allows the wood to move with the seasons so it doesn't cause any wood to crack or shift to much.
I go into more detail on the build plans!
Part 3: Building the doors
Doors are easier to build than they look, I promise!
I used dowels to join my boards together but in the plans I recommend pocket holes.
They are easy to use, and you can just screw it all together and move on to the next step.
In order for the cane to fit well in the doors I routed another rabbet on the backside of each of the cabinet doors.
Again, I go into more detail in the build plans!
Drill for the hinges with this hinge jig, it will literally make every cabinet project sooo much easier.
I definitely recommend staining your doors before you add the cane ( I didn't and it made the project 10x longer). So stop right now before you move on!
I used acrylic paint that was tan with a hint of green to it to hide the red in the red oak. Then I finished off by using this dark wax, which made it a beautiful warm brown.
Attaching the cane to the back groove was probably the most annoying part to be honest, but definitely worth it.
If you are using natural cane, soak it in water for 30 minutes before installing. That way when it dries it pulls it nice and tight.
I used plastic cane, since its more durable.
Start with the top of the door and nail the entire top, making sure the pattern is straight.
Then pull the cane tight and staple the whole bottom, again make sure the pattern is straight.
Then staple one side, and do the same thing on the other side, pulling it nice and tight.
If a staple doesn't go in properly (which definitely happened to me several times) then just pull it out and re staple.
Cut the excess cane with a sharp blade. I actually used a wallpaper trimmer and it worked amazing.
If you want to finish off the back of the doors, you can close it off like I did with plywood or if you want to keep it open you can add some trim to the rabbet to hide the staples.
Put the doors in the openings of the cabinet. Since the doors are inset, you might have to trim them a bit. I usually aim for an 1/8" reveal (gap) around all 4 sides of the door.
One side of my cabinet was a little out of square, so I had to trim a little off more on one side. What really helps me with this is my orbital sander. I just mark where I need to sand and slowly sand that edge until I get the reveal I want.
If you get the right hinges, you'll also be able to adjust them easily on the inside.
And thats it! If you would like the printable plans, don't forget to check them out here.
As always if you have any questions send me a message or you can find me on socials here:
Instagram: Builtbybecdesigns
If you want the full length video head over to my youtube.
Comments