This storage cabinet or Hutch (whatever you want to call it) definitely pushed me to learn new woodworking techniques. This is the perfect build if you want a little extra storage and you want to learn some new techniques. These plans are sponsored by Real Milk Paint. I used their paint in Boardwalk and their Chestnut brown wood wax.
The design for this build is based off a cabinet from Studio Mcgee. I might be biased but I love how mine turned out.
I hope you love the plans! and as always if there are any questions feel free to ask them in the comments.
Overview
Material List
Shopping List
60 Bd ft of 4/4 oak
3/4" plywood 4' x 2' 1 sheet
3/8" dowels
3/8" drill bit
wood glue
figure 8 fasteners
3/4" top bearing mortising bit for router
1/4" - 4' x 8' plywood 1 sheet
Glass sheet or acrylic sheet. I used plexiglass from Home Depot.
sandpaper
3/8" rabbeting bit for router
2" Spax screws
1 1/4" pocket screws
12" drawer slides (2 pair)
3/4" forstner bit
Taper jig (optional)
Overlay cabinet door hinge (6)
Tools Needed
Dowel jig
Router
Circular saw/table saw
Drill
Sander
Nail gun
Kreg jig
Measuring tape
Chisel
Drill
Oscillating saw
Cut List
Cabinet sides 68" L x 17 1/4" W x 3/4" thickness (2)
Shelves 39.25" L x 17" W x 3/4" thickness (3)
Top & bottom shelf 39.25" L x 17.25" W x 3/4" thickness (2)
Drawer supports 13 1/4" L x 7 1/4" W x 3/4" thickness (5)
Drawer box sides 12" L x 5" W x 3/4" thickness (4)
Drawer front & back 14 27/32 L x 5" W x 3/4" thickness (4)
Drawer bottom (does not include groove for drawer bottom) 14 27/32" L x 10 15/32" W x 1/4" thickness (2)
Bottom drawer shelf 38 17/32" L x 14" W x 3/4" thickness (1)
Drawer support fronts for the sides 7 1/4" L x 1 1/2" W x 3/4" thickness (2)
Drawer support front for the center 7 1/4" L x 3/4" W x 3/4" thickness (1)
Drawer front 17 13/64" L x 7" W x 3/4" thickness (2)
Door stiles (vertical sides) 68" L x 2" W x 3/4" thickness (4)
Door rails (horizontal sides) 16" L x 2" W x 3/4" thickness (4) if using mortise and tenon to glue up the measurements are 17" L x 2" W x 3/4" thickness
Door rails (horizontal sides wider center pieces) 16" L x 4.5" W x 3/4" thickness (4)
Legs 10" L x 2" W x 2" thickness (4)
Shorter sides for base 14" L x 1.5" W x 3/4" thickness (2)
Longer sides for base 36" L x 1.5" W x 3/4" thickness (2)
Center supports for base 16 1/2" L x 1.5" W x 3/4" thickness (3)
Back panel
Glue up the side panels according to the dimensions above.
2. Dado and rabbet the side panels for the shelves with the mortising bit and your router. The depth of the mortise should be 3/8". Route on a test piece first.
Make sure the side panels are flush with each other and clamped to a level surface.
3. Glue the 3 center shelves to the side panels. Make sure everything is square and let it dry for 24 hours.
Make sure the shelves are flush with the front of the side panels and there is a 1/4" gap at the back to allow for the plywood back to go in.
4. Route the back panel of the cabinet with a 3/8" rabbeting bit. The one I use is listed in the shopping list.
Attach the back panel with 1" brad nails.
5. Add the plywood drawer supports to the bottom of the cabinet using 2" spax screws on all 4 corners of the plywood. Make sure to double up the plywood so it is 1.5" thick on each side of the cabinet.
6. Attach the center drawer support in the center of the cabinet with 1 1/4" pocket screws. Make sure to check it is square, this will help the drawer slides glide smoothly.
7. Attach the drawer slides and the drawer supports fronts with brad nails. The drawer sides should be about 1/3" the way up the drawer box (depending on what slides you purchase).
8. This is my favorite way to build drawers! Attach the drawer sides to the slides first. Use a scrap piece of wood to hold them up so you can screw them onto the drawer slides easily.
Measure between the drawer sides to get an accurate measurement for the front and back.
9. Build the drawer boxes using the measurement you took in the last step. The image above should help you with a round about measurement but always make sure to measure the opening you have. There is always a chance something is a little off.
To make sure the bottom is sturdy I like to cut a groove with my table saw on the bottom of all 4 side of the drawer box, so the bottom can rest into that groove. You can also use a circular saw to make the cuts.
Pocket hole the front and back to the sides of the drawer box, making sure you use glue.
10. Slide the drawers in and using a forstner bit and drill, drill the holes for the figure 8 fasteners as shown in the image above.
11. Attach the top as shown in the image above. Remove the drawers and screw in from the bottom through the figure 8 fasteners.
12. Attach the drawer front using double sided tape and 1 1/4" screw through the back of the drawer. Make sure there is a 1/8" gap around all 4 sides of the drawer.
13. Glue up the 2 doors.
You can either use pocket holes, dowels or use mortise and tenon joinery (like I did) to join together all the pieces for the doors.
Make sure each piece is square during glue up and leave to set for 24 hours.
If using mortise and tenon joinery, use the measurements in the images above.
Optional step: taper the legs from 2" to 1".
14. Glue up the base using either pocket holes or dowels. Make sure everything is square before continuing on to the next step.
15. Drill for figure 8 fasteners to attach the top of the cabinet to the base. After you attach the figure 8's to the base, attach it to the bottom of the cabinet.
16. Cut the glass to size. Since I used acrylic and it was thick enough, I cut it with an oscillating saw but you can use a special knife for cutting acrylic.
17. Hang the doors.
18. Sand, stain and you've got a brand new cabinet!
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